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FINISTÈRE (29)
Region: Brittany

Finistère means ‘end of the earth’, not in any Biblical sense, of course – it derives from the Latin: Finis terra – but until someone points that out, you tend not to pick up on it.

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More familiar as a name in the radio weather forecasts from the BBC, Finistère is quite a lovable, quirky, unpretentious department, Celtic in its deep origins and, if you believe what you are told, with simmering undercurrents that would declare UDI from France given half the chance. It has always been apart from French, even Breton, influences, and was the last stronghold of resistance by Druids against insipient Christianity.

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Much of the department remains only lightly brushed by tourism, and Breton survives as an everyday language here – check out the bilingual road signs. Tourism is growing, but not at an alarming rate, and the pace of life still befits the out-of-the-way-ness of the region. Finistère has a fabulous, raggedy coastline, like dragon’s teeth, with numerous tiny coves and estuaries set against the craggy headlands of westernmost France. And, in spite of its full frontal aspect to Atlantic south-westerlies, the climate is nowhere near as bad as might be expected...usually.

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FINISTÈRE HIGHLIGHTS

There are two main towns, Brest and Quimper, the first hastily rebuilt following the Second World War; the second very much a clear demonstration that less is more. Elsewhere, the village of Locronan is something of an oddity, but it takes a moment to notice why. Those who love the sea wind in their hair will enjoy the Crozon Peninsula, a fabulous place of gentle hills, coastal cliffs and wide sandy beaches. And, if you like the standing stones of Carnac in Morbihan, then you'll want to see what Finistère has to offer at Lagatjar.

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