clermont-ferrand
department: puy-de-dÔme
region: Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes

This is the natural capital of the Auvergne, and in recent years the urban landscape has experienced major changes, notably the construction of a vast shopping complex in the Jaude district, a new covered market (St Pierre) and law courts and residential buildings. All these new developments combine to give an appealing juxtaposition of old and new, combining contemporary architecture with traditional urban development. It brings a vibrancy that is palpable; an enthusiasm that is catching...and it does much to dispel any lingering gloom.

Clermont is an agreeable place to explore, with a modern tram system that takes you out to the suburbs. This was introduced in 2006, and was the first system in France to use bi-directional pneumatic tyres, which was quite appropriate given that Clermont-Ferrand is the home of Michelin tyres. The town was also the home of Blaise Pascal, who invented many things, including the adding machine.

Originally, there were two towns here: Clermont and Montferrand. Louis XIII sealed their fate in 1630 through an Edict of Union, and so, Clermont-Ferrand was born.

This duality tends to be overlooked, but it responsible for the remarkable diversity found in both historical centres. In short, Clermont rests on antiquity, and was a long-lived episcopal city; Montferrand was founded in the Middle Ages by the Count of Auvergne. Today, old Montferrand rewards a perambulation with many buildings of architectural merit.

Ask at the tourist office for information about guided walks. If going it alone, start at the Place de Jaude and allow at least half a day.

Worth visiting

To the west of the town lie the mountains that rise to Puy-de-Dôme, clearly visible from the centre of town, from the Place de la Poterne and the Place de Jaude. Take a drive (or a walk if you prefer) up Puy-de-Dôme. There is a charge for driving up. The view, predictably, is outstanding, and well worth the effort of getting there.

For children, head for Vulcania, where you can learn everything you need to know about volcanoes and this magnificent landscape of the Auvergne.